Tuesday, April 14, 2009

An evening at The Prague State Opera

The 2009 study trip to Budapest, Bratislava, and Prague was a gas! I had a great time meeting new people, seeing new places, and I learned a lot, too! I consider this trip to be one of the major highlights of my TMMBA experience.

One of my best experiences of the entire trip was going to the opera. Yes, the opera. I had no idea I would be going to see an opera in Prague, but now that I type it out it seems quite remarkable to have done so. I can now say I went to a first-rate opera in Prague!

I had the good fortune to see Giuseppe Verdi’s opera Aida (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aida) in the Prague State Opera House (Státní opera Praha) on the Friday before our trip was over. While I am a classical music buff, having played bass and tenor trombone in many orchestras over the years (including the “pit orchestra” for the Walla Walla Symphony's 1983 production of Bizet’s Carmen opera), I never really knew or cared that much about opera as an art form. For one thing, I never could tell what was going on, what the story was, etc. Another problem was that it seemed to drag on too long. All these people in frilly costumes on stage, bellowing out unintelligible lyrics with wiggly voices…it all really seemed a little too much for me. I could not have been more mistaken...

When I walked into the Prague State Opera House I was overcome with awe. This is one of the most beautiful buildings I’ve been in!

See the photo: http://www.pragueexperience.com/pop_up_information/xlarge.asp?PlaceID=625&ImageFolder=xlarge

This opera house has played host to some of the world’s most famous musicians: Gustav Mahler, Richard Strauss, Bedřich Smetana, Sergei Prokofiev, and Enrico Caruso, the famous Italian tenor (1873-1921), all performed here.

My experience that night was very memorable, one which I will not soon forget.

What was interesting about this opera experience for me (as opposed to my limited exposure to others: Barber of Seville, Carmen, Phantom of the Opera, etc.) was that at this opera house had lyrics displayed in a large LED screen over the stage so you could read what the singers were singing. This is good if you’re like me and you can’t make heads or tails out of what’s being sung, especially when it’s in Czech. They had the lyrics (or libretto as the opera buffs call them) broadcast in Czech, English, and some other language I can’t remember anymore.

What was also great about this experience was that the singing seemed to really be good; no wiggly vibrato! Part of it must have been that I was finally able to follow the storyline. Whatever the reason—maybe it was the exotic-ness or new-ness of the experience—I realized I was actually enjoying an opera!

The inside décor of the Prague State Opera house is pretty spectacular, as you can see in the picture.

There’s not much I have seen in the States that compares to this opera house (with the possible exception of Carnegie Hall, which I have been to a number of times to hear the Vienna Philharmonic and other orchestras play). I’m sure the Vienna State Opera House is pretty spectacular, too, but I haven’t been there yet.

What’s also amazing about the Prague State Opera House (then known as New German Theatre) is that it was actually the site of one of Verdi’s opera premiere’s (La traviata) in November 9, 1919 under the baton of Georg Széll, who later went on to become the famous conductor of the Cleveland Orchestra…and now we’re in my zone. Georg Széll is one of the most recorded and revered conductors of all time, especially well-known for his interpretation of Beethoven’s 9 Symphonies (to which I can truthfully attest).

The opera itself was incredible: the music, the story, the costumes. It was a great storyline, too.

In a nutshell:

Aida, an Ethiopian princess, is captured and brought into slavery in Egypt. A military commander, Radames, struggles to choose between his love for her and his loyalty to the Pharaoh. To complicate the story further, Radames is loved by the Pharaoh's daughter Amneris, although he does not return her feelings.

(Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aida)

I was really moved. The costumes were fantastic and the music was flawless, as was the singing (in my humble opinion).

I was also intrigued by something I observed: when we were led to our box seat, through a locked door that our “handler” unlocked for us, there was an expectation of a tip, which I quickly picked up on when she did not leave right away. She thanked me for the dime, or whatever I gave her, and left on her way. This is interesting to note in light of some of what we came to learn about tipping in Czech culture.

Anyway, in case you’re interested in learning more, here are some facts about the Prague State Opera House:

The Prague State Opera presents a varied repertoire of opera and ballet from Verdi, Tchaikovsky, Puccini, Rossini, Donizetti, Prokofiev and other famous composers.

As with many buildings in the Czech Republic, the Prague State Opera has an interesting history. Originally named the German Theatre, the opera house opened in 1888 to great applause. It was immediately hailed as one of the finest German opera houses.

After World War II, the opera house was renamed the Smetana Theatre, after the famous Czech composer.

As Czechoslovakia became a communist state, opera was considered elitist, and performances were few and far between. The opera house building suffered from neglect during this period.
The theatre's renaissance came in 1992, after the fall of communism. Yet another name change followed, to the now familiar Prague State Opera.

A regular program of opera and ballet was installed, and this magnificent theatre came to life once more. For many visitors today, a night at the opera is the highlight of their Prague trip.
Performances at the Prague State Opera run for around ten months of the year, breaking from late June to late August.

At Christmas the Prague State Opera is the grand setting for classical music concerts, and on New Year's Eve it hosts a celebrated gala ball.

The Prague State Opera is located a couple of minutes walk from the top of Wenceslas Square.

(Source: http://www.pragueexperience.com/places.asp?PlaceID=625)

(Also see: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prague_State_Opera)

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